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Roof Truss Repair Kings provides roof truss repair, cracked and cut truss repair, and sagging roof repair services in the Columbia, MO area for both residential and commercial properties. Contact us now for a free estimate.
Roof truss repair in Columbia, MO costs anywhere from $460 to $3,680 on average to fix one to a few cracked, split, or cut trusses. The price depends on how many trusses are damaged, where the damage sits, attic access, whether an engineer's detail and permit are needed, and whether ceilings or roofing must be opened. Send us photos for pricing.
Yes, we take roof truss repair requests across Columbia and the rest of the Columbia, MO area. Labor and material costs here run about 8% below the national average, and the price range above already reflects that.
Yes, in most cases. We sister new lumber alongside the cracked, split, or cut member, or add plywood or steel plates at a joint. Heavy rot, termite, or fire damage usually means a new truss.
Yes, we repair trusses in houses, garages, townhomes, farm buildings, and commercial buildings.
Yes, we cover the Columbia, MO area. Send us the property address and we'll confirm.
We do. It's structural framing work, done to a repair design from the truss maker or an engineer when the damage calls for one.
Yes, in most cases, if the roof isn't sagging and the crack isn't growing, but get it looked at soon. If you see new sagging, hear cracking in wind or snow, or the ceiling starts to drop, keep everyone out of those rooms and call us right away.
The usual signs are a dip or wave in the roofline, cracked or split boards in the attic, metal plates pulling away from joints, and new cracks where walls meet the ceiling. Send us photos of what you see.
As soon as we can, and sooner if the roof is sagging or a truss broke in a storm. Say so when you contact us so temporary support can go in first.
Yes, in most cases for urgent damage like a truss broken by a storm or a fallen tree. We'll confirm after-hours availability and any extra charge when you contact us.
We need the address, a photo of the whole truss, close-ups of the damage, and how it happened if you know. Tell us if the roofline sags from outside and whether you have the original truss drawings.
No, not the whole time. Someone needs to let us in and be reachable in case we find more damage once things are opened up.
Yes, but the owner or property manager has to approve it first.
Yes, in most cases. The residential code most areas adopt doesn't allow a truss to be cut, spliced, or altered without a registered design professional's approval, so an engineer, often the truss maker's, signs off on the fix. We can usually arrange one.
Yes, structural truss repairs usually need a building permit, often with an engineer's stamped drawing. The contractor usually pulls it, and your local building department decides what's needed.
Yes, we confirm the price before we start. If we open a ceiling or the roof deck and find more rot or a loose plate, we price that with you before going further.
Yes, usually when the damage is sudden, like a storm, a fallen tree, or a fire. Termites, slow leaks, rot, and trusses cut during past remodels usually aren't covered.
Yes, engineering is usually a separate line, often a few hundred dollars for an inspection and report, and more when stamped repair drawings are needed.
We usually sister or plate one truss in half a day to a full day. Several trusses or a full replacement can take a few days, plus time for the engineer's detail and the permit.
No, most truss repairs are done from inside the attic. We only open the roof deck or a ceiling when there's no other way to reach the damage.
Yes, we usually sister the cracked member with new lumber running at least 2 feet past each side of the crack, glued and fastened to the repair detail. A crack in the bottom chord or through a plate always gets an engineer's look.
It means we glue and fasten a new board of the same size alongside the damaged member, in the pattern the repair detail calls for. It's the most common fix for a cracked or split truss.
Yes, in most cases. We shore the roof, jack the sag up slowly, sometimes over a day or two, then sister or brace the truss to hold it. Tell us how far the roofline dips.
Yes, an engineer designs a fix for that cut, usually sistered lumber or plates around it, and we install it.
Yes, we shore the roof first, then sister the broken chord or web on both sides or replace it. Tell us whether the roofline has dropped.
Yes, once the leak is fixed, we cut out the soft or rotted sections and sister in new lumber. We probe the wood to tell a stain from real rot.
No, we don't recommend it. A truss repair needs a detail from an engineer or the truss maker that sets the lumber, fasteners, and spacing, and a repair that doesn't follow it may not carry the load.
Yes, where the metal plates are pulling away, rusting, or missing teeth, we add plywood, OSB, or steel gussets on both faces, sized and nailed to the engineer's detail.
Yes, when a truss is too far gone to repair, we shore the roof, take it out, and install a new one built to match. Tell us the span and roof pitch if you know them.
Yes, once the termites have been treated, we sister or replace the damaged members. Heavy damage often means a new truss, and insurance usually won't pay for it.
Yes, and we check the trusses nearby too, since wind and snow loads can pull plates loose on trusses that look fine.
Yes, once the tree is off the roof, we shore the area and repair or replace the broken trusses. Take photos before cleanup, since insurance often covers this.
Yes, and we check the trusses on either side, since a failed truss puts more load on its neighbors. Keep people out of the rooms below until it's looked at.
Yes, once the building is cleared for access. Charred trusses are usually replaced, and an engineer decides which ones can stay.
Yes, and tell us your closing date. Lenders often want an engineer's evaluation or sealed repair drawings for a cut truss, so the engineering usually comes first.
Yes, the extra weight comes off first, then we reinforce them to an engineer's detail.
Yes, we cut out the rot and sister in new lumber or scab on a new overhang. The leak behind it has to be fixed too, or the rot comes back.
Yes, we repair both. Rafters are usually sistered along their length, while a truss fix has to work with the whole truss design.
Yes, mostly. Don't walk near the damaged truss, cut anything, or add weight up there. If you can reach it safely, photos of the whole truss and the damage help us a lot.
No, not unless an engineer or contractor tells you where. Propping or jacking a truss without a plan can shift the load and do more damage.
Yes, please move stored boxes away from the damaged truss. We need room for lumber and supports, and working around stored items adds labor.
Yes, shallow checking along the grain as the wood dries is common. We'd want to see any crack that runs deep into the board, goes through a plate, or keeps getting longer.
That's often truss uplift, where the bottom chords bow up as the wood shrinks and lift the ceiling off interior walls. It's usually a drywall issue, not a broken truss, but settling can cause it too, so we check.
Yes, for light items like a ceiling fixture, but never through the metal plates. Don't cut, drill, or lag heavy racks into a truss until we've checked it and an engineer or the truss maker approves, since bottom chords are built to carry little more than the ceiling and insulation.
We use new lumber matching the original size and grade, plywood or OSB gussets, steel plates, nails, structural screws or through-bolts, and construction adhesive. The engineer's detail sets the sizes, fasteners and spacing.
Yes, ask us to include drywall patching and paint in the quote.
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